Dive Caithness

Summer Diving in Caithness
by Keith Waugh

The weather looked quite promising as 9 Clydebank Divers headed north on the 22^nd July for 4 days of new diving sites. We all arrived at the house in Thurso at around 4pm. The sky was heavy with cloud and the wind was blowing a North-westerly force 4-5, though it wasn’t raining!!! Not a good start but we settled in to the accommodation, then went out for a pub dinner and had a small refreshment!!

Saturday was dry and cloudy but the wind was still blowing. Nevertheless we took the 5002_Lobster

boat along to Scrabster and launched for a couple of dives. The sea was fairly calm at Scrabster as it is sheltered by the 1 kilometre long cliffs of Little Head and Holborn Head. Joe was keen to see what it might be like out “round the corner”. The seas were large and the Clydebank 5.4metre rigid hulled inflatable boat suddenly felt a bit small, so we settled on diving the relatively quieter waters at Little Head.

The 40metre(130feet) high cliffs are quite spectacular with plenty of inlets, gulleys and caves. Underwater scenery was similarly interesting with the cliff continuing down to around 8-10 metres, then a

rocky slope to 18metres and the sandy seabed. The rocks were thick with kelp fronds waving to and fro in the surge. There were fair numbers of fish, mainly Ballan Wrasse, Pollock, Saithe and Sand and Leopard Spotted Gobies but they were very timid and not at all approachable for photography. The Lesser Spotted Dogfish were a little more obliging (see top) and some of the numerous lobsters were positively bold. (see photo below of Gerry and the lobster) Unfortunately some of the lobsters were too bold as they were inside a fisherman’s lobster pots. (see well below).

Owing to the weather conditions we actually had 2 days diving – Saturday and Tuesday, along this 1 kilometre long cliff face. The whole face is fairly similar but the most interesting and varied area was immediately below the disused lighthouse and along at the north end of the cliffs towards Holborn Head itself. However, at this end of the headland the surge caused by the windy conditions was beginning to become more “character building” than safe. In calm conditions Holborn Head and Clett Stack would be well worth exploring. (see photos below). 5013_Port_Skerra_arch

On Sunday we went down to Wick on the east coast, to see if the sea was sheltered from the strong North-westerly wind. Our hopes were dashed when we discovered that the sea conditions were just as bad as they were in Thurso. Nevertheless we enjoyed a walk around the rocks at Staxigoe and the cliffs at Old Wick Castle. Indeed the cliffs at the castle were quite impressive and the sea was ………… well, jumping! No doubt the diving would again be spectacular in calm conditions.(photos below)

Since we were in the area we had to visit John O’Groats. Shortly after we arrived, the passenger ferry from Orkney arrived and managed to squeeze through the very narrow entrance to the little harbour in spite of the choppy conditions. (see below) John O’Groats is quite well built up with various tourist related businesses including a few gift shops, cafes, a bar or two, and a photography business. You could have your photo taken at the most northerly point of the UK mainland. Sadly the magnificent John O’Groats Hotel is still closed and looking very jaded surrounded by security fencing.

After a few obligatory photos we felt it was time to get out of the wind and have a bite to eat. After lunch we all headed back to Thurso. Some members of the party decided to drown their sorrows in a drink or two but Allan and Keith went for an 8 mile hike around the cliffs on Holborn Head. The cliffs and sea were, to say the least, quite dramatic. One or two larger boats were seen off Holborn Head making for shelter towards the west. Needless to say the boats were making a great deal of stomach churning movement.

Monday morning saw little change in the weather but we were keen to try to get a dive or two. Boat diving was definitely out of the question but could we find somewhere reasonably sheltered for a shore dive?

After some debate and a consultation of the Dive Guide book John suggested we take a look at “The Haven” at Skarfskerry Point, east of Dunnet Head. The water in the harbour was calm enough (see left) and the cliff face looked interesting. There were some bits of wreckage from a couple of ships as well, so we kitted up and in we went.

The visibility wasn’t bad considering the rough seas. As we swam out from the small harbour there were masses of Aurelia aureta jellyfish (Moon Jellyfish) but as we moved in to deeper water they gave way to long, waving kelp fronds and a reasonable number of fish, mainly Pollock. The cliff face was covered in soft corals, anemones and sponges, also small crustacean and sea urchins. A massive boulder sat near the cliff wall about 75metres out creating an interesting passage to swim through. Great for photography if the conditions had been better. We all managed a 40-50 minute dive.

For the 2^nd dive we headed for Port Skerra, across the county boundary in to Sutherland. This consisted of a small harbour again with a bay sheltered with fringing reefs. (see below)One of the reefs was really an extension of the harbour wall and at the end of it, in around 16metres depth, there was a 5metre high underwater rock arch leading out to the open sea. The surge through the arch was quite strong so we were all careful not to venture further. The sea was still very lumpy outside the protecting reef wall.

In the evening Gerry demonstrated his 5011_Lobster_potted

culinary expertise with a delicious pasta dish, then Allan massacred an Apple pie in an attempt to serve equal portions. The pastry reminded me of an earthquake. Thank goodness he didn’t try to serve it with custard.

Tuesday morning, as mentioned earlier, saw us back at Little Head with the boat. The conditions had started to calm down somewhat, but it was still too rough to dive right on Holborn Head.

In the evening, our last evening, we painted the town red and went out for fish suppers. Don’t tell me that Clydebank divers don’t know how to live!! Somehow we ended up in a pub and sipped beer, cider, rum and whisky, but not all at once! We watched Sky Sports and generally put the world to rights.

Wednesday morning greeted us with a clear blue sky, a bright orange sun and hardly a breath of wind, but we had to go home! It turned out to be the hottest day of the year so far. Would you believe it!!!!

So, thanks to John Morgan for all his hard work in organising the trip. Now that we’ve seen the potential we will hopefully have another trip to Caithness. Perhaps the weather gods will be on our side next time.

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